The first stop in Russia was Utulik: a tiny village on the south coast of Lake Baikal, the world’s oldest, deepest lake.
If you eat at one place in Russia, eat at this glorious, dingy little truck stop on the outskirts of Utulik. People told me not to expect much from Russian cuisine, but they were very wrong. Favourite dish: ‘The Surprise’, which as best I could tell was a giant dollop of mashed potatoes in a bowl of borscht.
Ceiling in the Peter and Paul Cathedral, St. Petersburg.